Heading for the mainland

January 17/06

Here we are in La Paz (the city of peace). We covered 350K from Loreto today. Again it was extremely windy. The cross wind was gusting 60 to 80K. We crossed the Sierra de la Giganta twice today along some nice winding roads. Though the western central plains the road was straight as an arrow for over nearly 100K it would have been quite boring had it not been for the wind.

For those travelling this way we have a few suggestions for camping (tent or RV). In Mulege we stayed at a place called The Orchard. It is located about 2 kilometres south of town. It is an old date orchard along the river. There are permanent vacation homes and nice camp sites. Many of the date palms are still standing as well as orange and lemon trees. There is no restaurant but there is a path from the camp site to town along the river. It is a twenty minute walk. The rate for camping is $70 pesos per camp site (about $7. US). A word of warning… if you stay in Mulege on Friday or Saturday night, don’t plan to sleep without earplugs. Apparently there is a party downtown every Friday and Saturday and a traditional Mexican band played until 4 am. We could hear them well 2 kilometres away.

There is lots of camping on the beaches here too. Organized camp site cost about 70 to 100 pesos but you can camp for free if you do not want any facilites… ie. washrooms, showers, store or food. Usually we opted for the former. On the beach we stayed (just south of Mulege) there were 2 restaurants. (Ray’s and Anna’s) Our camping neighbour’s recommended Anna’s. We have been impressed with the quality of the food so far. We stayed at Anna’s until quite later talking and drinking with a couple from Chicago.

In Loreto we stayed at the Rivera Del Mar on Francisco 1, Madero No. 100. This place is well maintained, clean bathrooms, laundry facilities, wireless internet and an excellent, reasonably priced restaurant. It is a small family operated camp with approximately 24 RV spots and 5 camping spots. It is located about 3 blocks from the beach and 8 or 9 blocks from the centre of town. It is definitely recommended, although the tent camp sites are a bit noisy as they back against the next street. Also nearly everyone who lives in the neighbourhood must have chickens… many rooster started crowing just before sunrise.

We arrived in La Paz too late today to get the permits for the MCs that will allow us to book passage to the mainland. We still have not decided whether we will take to ferry to Topolabampo or to Mazatlan (S?) It depends on sailing times and or fares. Tonight we are in a small hotel near the beach in La Paz. The beach boulevard is similar to European resort beaches. Quite touristy here but it is not high season. Security for the MCs is important so the hotel allowed us to roll the bikes into the lobby.

Looks like everyone else has hit the sack… ‘til tomorrow.

January 18/02

Well it looks like I spoke too soon about the good food… Shortly after going to bed last night my stomach developed a queasy feeling. Within minutes I was up talking to Ralph on the big white telephone. This morning I feel OK but I won’t be straying far from any toilet facilities. It is imodium for breakfast today!

I think the mistake I made was to eat Italian food (Pasta with a cream sauce) in Mexico. It is probably better to stick with the fresh food that is locally available. Storage of other foods may be a problem, especially in the low tourist season where it is likely to sit around longer. It’s just a theory. I will stick to the local food from now on and see how it works.

Today we dealt with misinformation and permits. A permit is required to take a motorcycle into mainland Mexico. It can be purchased at the border crossing or at the ferry terminal at Pichilingue, near La Paz. There is a new terminal building recently opened so procedures may have changed. In order to purchase the permit you need 4 items… your passport, a Mexico tourist visa (available only at the Migration offices, if you are riding south from Baja California to Baja California Sur you will pass a migration check point just north of Gerrero Negra. Got one there, it will same some time. The cost is 200 pesos and must be paid at any bank.), your MC registration and drivers licence. You also need photocopies of these items. (You can get them copied at the terminal for a nominal fee) The permit costs $37 US. Once you documents are in order you must hand over a credit card (Visa or Mastercard). Nothing else will do, and that includes cash! This is where Dave ran into trouble. He does not have a credit card and they would not accept Jenny’s. He has to pay $330. in US cash. He was told that he will be able to get back $300. when he leaves the country. Hmmm!

Dave rode back and forth between La Paz and the ferry terminal 3 times . . once to find a bank to pay for the tourist visa and again to get cash. By the time he returned the 3^rd. time the office was closed (closes at 2 pm). He was not a happy camper when he got back to the hotel.

We decided to take the La Paz – Mazatlan Ferry It runs 3 days a week right now. It leaves tomorrow (Thursday) at 3 pm and arrives in Mazatlan at 9 am. We still don’t actually have tickets yet because you need the permits first but if it is not sold out we plan to get cabins with 2 beds and a bathroom ($40. extra) It costs $75. per person for the fare and $120. for the motorcycle. (one other item… you need tie downs for the bike)

Time for a nap. I’m feeling better now but I have not been able to eat anything today

Next update should be from the mainland